I forgot to mention the street drains: they’re huge, double wide and gaping open. If I wasn’t aware that NO could have heavy rain, these would have suggested it.
And I forgot to mention the termite traps! I’d been thinking that owning an older home here must be a constant battle against rot; the bookshop owner told us about the termites, both native and Formosan (more resistant to poison) and the buildings that collapse every year because the wood framing has been eaten away inside the plaster walls. Only cypress resists their jaws, apparently. The little metal discs on the sidewalks are publicly-funded termite traps.
We returned to the hotel to gird our loins for the music tour I’d booked. I had no expectations, just hoped that we’d learn the etiquette of the music venues, but we learned far more than that and had fun as well. Jeremy of NewOrleansMusicTours checked our preferences, gave a potted history of NO music, took us to three different venues on Frenchmen Street, then left us at a table he’d reserved for us at a fourth. We’ve long enjoyed all the music of the South; we returned to the hotel feeling as though we have three more days in the best sweetshop in the world.
The Night Market on Frenchmen St has an interesting array of artisan art and crafts. We bought a print; I wish we had space and weight for some of the ironwork.